Western Region: Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
Santa Elena Canyon & The Rio Grande by subarcticmike http://www.flickr.com/photos/31856336@N03/ © Some rights reserved
The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive in the Western Region of Big Bend National Park is a photographer and hiker’s paradise with its many scenic overlooks and miles of rolling desert and wide, open sky. Despite being mainly a route for an exciting car adventure, the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive offers many opportunities for a day full of short, fun hiking excursions through some of the park’s most remote, dramatic scenery.
The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive twists around for 30 miles (48km) skirting the Chisos Mountains and the town of Castolon until it arrives at the cliffs of the stunning Santa Elena Canyon, a must-see landmark for all visitors to Big Bend. Be sure to stop and enjoy the views at Mule Ears Overlook, Sotol Vista Overlook, and Tuff Canyon along the way.
Interesting, short hikes can be found at all major vantage points along the drive. In true National Park fashion, all of the historic and geologic features on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive are illustrated with interpretative signs. Rock hounds will appreciate the volcanic geology of Tuff Canyon hike and history buffs will enjoy the short atmospheric walks to Sam Nail Ranch, Homer Wilson (Blue Creek) Ranch, and Castolon Historic District which showcase Big Bend’s past.
For short worthwhile jaunts, consider hiking Tuff Canyon and most certainly do not miss the short hike all the way down to the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon where massive limestone cliffs soar into the blue desert sky. The muddy Rio Grande flows between, dividing Texas on one side and Mexico on the other. To truly “feel” the canyon, going into the Santa Elena Canyon is a must–either by foot, kayak, or canoe. Once inside the canyon, parts of the trail are shaded and cooled by the high canyon walls.
For a longer hike, consider the Burro Mesa Pour-off where you can spot Southwestern earless lizards! These colorful creatures have a beautiful rainbow pattern on their skin and have been spotted on trails near Homer Wilson’s Ranch as well.
Easy Walks
Lower Burro Mesa Pour-off
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 1 mile round trip (1.6 kilometers)
- Time: 1/2 hour
- Trailhead: Begin at the end of Burro Mesa Spur Road off the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
- Elevation: 60 feet/18 meters
- Highlight: A great walk for viewing geological features.
This trail leads through a dry wash and ends at the bottom of a narrow box canyon where water has carved a deep channel into Burro Mesa. The end of the trail is the base of a 100-foot pour-off. Usually dry, the smooth, polished pour-off attests to the dramatic power of water that floods this canyon during summer rains.
Sam Nail Ranch
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: .5 mile loop (0.8 kilometers)
- Time: ¼ hour
- Trailhead: Begin at Mile 3 of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
- Elevation: 0 feet/meters
- Highlight: Atmospheric hike, complete with old wooden windmill.
An easy, well-maintained trail leads through the old homestead of Jim and Sam Nail and Sam’s wife, Nena. There are interesting historic remnants here, including part of the adobe walls of the house and two windmills, one which is still in operation. This is a beautiful desert oasis and a great spot for birding and wildlife viewing.
Tuff Canyon
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: .75 mile round trip (1.2 kilometers)
- Time: ½ hour
- Trailhead: Begin at Tuff Canyon Overlook on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
- Elevation: 75 feet/23 meters
- Highlight: Great views into Tuff Canyon.
This trail gets its name from tuff, volcanic ash that hardens into rock-like forms. The texture of tuff is abrasive and its light coloration is what give this canyon its white color. Tuff Canyon trail is a short hike that highlights some of the varied and interesting rock formations that can be found in Big Bend. Start off near the trailhead and follow the path downhill towards the southwest. Off in the distance you’ll see Castolon Mountain, which dominates the horizon in this part of the park. The path slopes down to the mouth of the canyon and then makes a near 180-degree turn and heads northeast into the canyon. The trail’s three overlooks offer great views into Tuff Canyon and you can continue on the trail at the south end of the parking lot to go down into the canyon. During the rainy season, the canyon fills with pools of water.
Moderate Hikes
Santa Elena Canyon
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 1.6 miles round trip (2.6 kilometers)
- Time: 1 hour
- Trailhead: Begins at terminus of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, 8 miles west of Castolon
- Elevation: 80 feet/26 meters
- Highlight: Stunning Santa Elena Canyon – Sheer rock faces rising up 1200 feet out of glassy water.
- Closures: Trail is impassable when Terlingua Creek floods.
There are several must see places within the park and this is one. At the very western end of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, you’ll park at a parking lot and walk a couple hundred feet along a trail floored with wooden slats to the sandy, open flood plane where Terlingua Creek joins the Rio Grande.
Look across the river to Mexico, wave to the occasional rancher herding his cattle and then spot the trail entrance. Climb several switchbacks (some with stairs and railings, most paved) to a vista more than 100 feet high, where you can look back to admire the overview of the Rio Grande as it leaves the canyon.
After that, it’s all down hill back to the river on a gentle slope, through deliciously cool air shaded by the canyon walls towering above you on both sides. These massive cliffs rise up on either side of the river about 1200 feet or more and their looming presence is simply amazing. The hike up into the canyon is not long, maybe an hour, and does have some uphill in the beginning, but it is worth it. The trail ends at a small beach along the river.
The Chimneys
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 4.8 miles round trip (7.7 kilometers)
- Time: 2 hours
- Trailhead: Begin at mile 13 of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
- Elevation: 400 feet/122 meters
- Highlight: Flat and scenic desert trail to rock formations and Indian petroglyphs.
- Note: No shade on this trail.
The trail to the Chimneys is one of the easiest in Big Bend. As there is no shade on this trail, it may be very hot in summer, but the trail is well-developed and the topography almost level. This hike leads to a series of prominent volcanic outcroppings, or dikes, called “The Chimneys.” The chimneys are about 2.4 miles into the hike and easily seen from the trailhead. These features have always been an important landmark and Indian petroglyphs, or rock art markings, can be found at the base of the chimney.
To extend this hike, continue west on the trail beyond the chimneys another 4.6 miles. This results in an enjoyable 7-mile hike if you can arrange transportation on the opposite end. The trail comes to an end on the Old Maverick Road near Luna’s Jacal. Another option for extending your hike, is to head northwest 1.5 miles from the chimneys to the huge cottonwood tree that marks Red Ass Spring. Return the way you came.
Mule Ears Spring
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 3.8 miles round trip (6.1 kilometers)
- Time: 3 hours
- Trailhead: Begin at the Mule Ears Overlook parking area which can be found at mile 15 of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
- Elevation: 20 feet/6 meters
- Highlight: Beautiful desert hike to a small spring. Spectacular geology and mountain/desert views.
There are many trails in this area but the Mule Ears Spring Trail is one of the most popular. It leads through the foothills of the Chisos Mountain range, skirts around Trap Mountain, and crosses several washes to a small spring marked by large cottonwood trees. At the spring you will find an old rock corral and a small adobe house. The spring itself is overgrown with shrubs, but ferns and cattails grow there. Throughout the hike you can see the Mule Ears, which are exposed dikes of volcanic ash, along with gorgeous vistas of Santa Elena Canyon. The small stones piled at various points along the trail are markers. Please remember there is no bathing in backcountry springs.
Upper Burro Mesa Pour-off
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 3.6 miles round trip (5.75 kilometers)
- Time: 2 hours
- Trailhead: Begin at pull-off, mile 6.6 of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
- Elevation: 300 feet/91 meters
- Closures: This canyon trail is subject to extremely dangerous flash flooding. Do NOT take this trail when storms are likely since there are no escape routes.
This route follows a dry wash downstream through two canyons to the top of the 100-foot Burro Mesa Pour-off. The trail includes some large rocks to climb down, where some rock scrambling may be necessary. Pay attention on the return hike to ensure that you follow the same drainages. Contrary to its name, this pour-off is wet only after rain.
