Admiring Sunset, Big Bend National Park http://www.flickr.com/photos/atbaker/5487962974/ By AlphaTangoBravo / Adam Baker © Some rights reserved
Northern Region: Persimmon Gap
Driving into the most remote, northern region of Big Bend National Park is kind of like a voyage to an unknown, untamed land – great distances must be crossed and preparations must be made – food packed, GPS checked, gas tank fueled, and water stocked. It’s not surprising that Apollo astronauts journeyed to Big Bend to practice their lunar excursions and brush up on their volcanic geology; here ancient rock formations and curious life forms abound in a lunar-like environment. But unlike the isolation astronauts encounter, that end-of-the-world sensation vanishes as soon as a sign announces your arrival at Persimmon Gap, north entrance to Big Bend National Park.
Although largely undeveloped, Persimmon Gap has just enough visitor centers, dayhikes, short nature walks, auto trails, and roadside exhibits to make for an interesting, easygoing visit. Persimmon Gap Visitor Center is open most of the year and offers park orientation and information. About 29 miles down the road, the Panther Junction Visitor Center offers extensive displays and includes a bookstore with a wide array of Big Bend literature and guide books.
Those looking to get a little hiking in will enjoy Dog Canyon or Devil’s Den, two popular day hikes leading to two distinctively different, but neighboring canyons in the Santiago Mountains. Another rewarding hike can be found in the equally primitive trail up Persimmon Gap Draw towards Persimmon Peak. This hike starts close to Big Bend’s northern entrance, so consider hiking this trail upon exiting or entering the park. Sun and heat in Big Bend can be scorching and deadly, so hiking during the early summer month’s is not recommended. Temperatures soar above 100 degrees in the summer and most of these trails are very exposed, so “hiker beware”. No matter the season, carry plenty of water and dress for rapidly changing weather.
For those seeking “the road less traveled”, Dagger Flat Auto Trail provides 14 miles of quintessential cactus hunting and desert exploration which culminates in a thick-leaved bushy forest of Giant Dagger Yuccas. Dagger Flats is open to all vehicles, however it tends to be bumpy and very sandy near the end of the road. One of the rewards of taking this route is that you can see a number of unique plant species in a fairly short period of time, such the dinosaur plant, spiny ocotillo and fragrant creosote. Over 1,200 species of plants can be found in Big Bend.
Be sure to get a copy of the information guide published by the Big Bend Natural History Association at the beginning of the route which details the plants of Dagger Flat Trail. The guide will get you out of the car to scout out desert flora such as the dinosaur plant, which is one of the oldest species of plant on earth, having existed for nearly 300 million years. The plant gets its name from its coexistence with dinosaurs during the Carboniferous period. Because of its ability to survive for many years without water, it is also referred to as the ‘resurrection plant’.
On Route 385, along the 29-miles between Persimmon Gap and Panther Junction, there are a number of roadside exhibits, including the Fossil Bone Exhibit. Big Bend as a whole represents a world-class arena for geology and the Fossil Bone Exhibit offers scenic views of some of the park’s oldest exposed rock and replicas of various fossilized bones found in the area. Fossils date back 50 million years and include not just dinosaurs but sponges, brachiopods, ancient reptiles, and mammals. Perhaps the most famous of Big Bend’s fossil treasures is the giant flying reptile with a wingspan over 35 feet. A replica of the bones of one wing can be found on exhibit nearby at the Panther Junction Visitor Center.
Easy Hikes
Dog Canyon
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 3.5 miles round trip (5 kilometers)
- Time: 3 hours
- Trailhead: Pullout on the east side of US 385, 3.5 miles south of Persimmon Gap
- Elevation: 50 feet (16 meters)
- Highlight: Easy stroll through a limestone canyon
The northernmost trails in Big Bend National Park lead to a pair of narrow ravines in the Santiago Mountains, the long mountain range that forms a natural boundary between Big Bend and the Black Gap Wilderness Management Area. The shorter of the two trails is the level path to Dog Canyon, a deep but relatively wide ravine leading right through the mountains.
Dog Canyon hike begins at a pullout beside the highway, 3.5 miles south of the park entrance at Persimmon Gap. The canyon is clearly visible to the east as a distinct cleft in the Santiago Mountains, separated by a dead flat desert plain. Follow the cairned trail 1.4 miles across this shadeless desert plain until the path drops downstream into Nine Point Draw, a dry, stony wash that leads to the canyon. Once inside the canyon, cliffs provide a shade for the length of the gorge, which is less than a half mile. Look for small caves in the canyon walls as you travel along the wide bends into the barren desert landscape on the far side of the hills, where the hike ends. On the far side of the canyon, the view is amazing and resurrection plants can be spotted on the hillsides to your far right.
Persimmon Gap Draw Trail
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 2 total miles (3.2 kilometers)
- Time: 3 hours
- Trailhead: Persimmon Gap Ranger Station
- Elevation: 260 feet (79 meters)
- Highlight: Views of Persimmon Peak
Far flung at the northern edge of Big Bend, Persimmon Gap Draw Trail is one of the most seldom-visited hikes in the park but definitely worth completing upon entering or exiting the park at the nearby north entrance station. The trail contains fascinating geologic features, including the oldest exposed rocks in the park, and follows a winding desert wash to a high saddle east of Persimmon Gap. The trail is easy to follow at first, as the wash is broad and vegetation is spread out. The hike provides great views of Persimmon Peak and ends with a pleasant view north of the park.
Moderate Hikes
Devil’s Den
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 6.5 miles round trip (10.4 kilometers)
- Time: 4 hours
- Trailhead: Pullout on the east side of US 385, 3.5 miles south of Persimmon Gap
- Elevation: 600 feet (196 meters)
- Highlight: Beautifully eroded limestone canyon complete with pour-offs, potholes and terraces.
Devil’s Den is a sheer-walled ravine through limestone strata resembling a slot canyon, but wider. The Devil’s Den Trail branches off the Dog Canyon Trail after 1.5 miles. Here Dog Canyon Trail meets the dry wash and the Devil’s Den trail continues upstream and forks up a tributary drainage for nearly 2 miles. The trail curves through range of undulating hills then turns southeast, towards the mountains. The sandy wash is quite narrow and overgrown but walking is still easy. As the wash gains elevation, the trail widens out and low cliffs rise up on either side.
The zig-zag outline of Devil’s Den is visible from some distance away, cutting through an otherwise flat, inclined plateau. “The Narrows” of Devil’s Den are reached after a slightly more strenuous hike further up the wash, past some rocky areas. Here the gorge turns into a sheer-walled ravine, its limestone walls enclosing the streambed which is mostly bare rock, boulders, and a few bushes.
It’s important to note that there are no marked trails through the narrows, and plenty of obstacles to overcome – be prepared to boulder hop and keep an eye out where you are going. The upper end of the ravine suddenly opens up to the northern part of Dagger Flat, a wide yucca-filled valley. Devil’s Den tends to be greener and shadier than Dog Canyon since more water is retained and the canyon is more sheltered.
Strenuous Hikes
Fossil Bone Exhibit to Hot Springs via Tornillo Creek
- Terrain: Desert Hike
- Distance: 23 total miles ( 37 kilometers)
- Time: 2 days, 1 overnight
- Trailhead: Near Fossil Bone Exhibit
- Elevation: 2800 feet ( 853 meters)
This off-trail overnight hike is truly for the experienced hiker – someone who understands topography and knows how to handle a compass. This long trek is a great way to take in a heavy dose of desert wilderness and splendid solitude. By traveling along Tornillo Creek and following the dry arroyo streambed all the way downstream for many miles. This allows savvy hikers to forego the need for a trail and enjoy countryside normally occupied only by wildlife. Sometimes, particularly the winter months, large pools of water and springs are found along the first half of the route.
The following maps are most definitely required for this hike – USGS Grapevine Hills, McKinney Springs, Roys Peak, and San Vicente, however, the National Park Service recommends consulting “100 Classic Hikes in Texas Guide Book” for additional detailed information.
Remember to obtain a free backcountry use permit before heading out overnight and always contact the National Park Service for current weather and trail conditions.
